Yaks of Bhutan

Our SUV climbed slowly up the switchbacks of the narrow mountain pass. The clouds floated around us, through the trees, creating a mystical feeling. This is where the fabled Yak roamed.

The mystical land where the Yak make their home

Yaks are built for the high altitudes. They thrive between 10,000-20,000 feet on the alpine tundra, grasslands, and cold desert regions of the Tibetan plateau. The Yak play a vital role in the culture and livelihoods of many Bhutanese communities. They are a source of food, fuel, transportation, and clothing. Yak herds, also called “cabinets”, are tended to by a semi-nomadic people who guide their yaks seasonally in search of fresh pastures.

We came around the bend and the herd was there in front of us, moving slowly up the winding road. It was a mix of females and younger yaks.

I wanted to jump out of the vehicle to capture the moment, but we were warned that they can be dangerous if startled or if protecting their young. Female yaks range up to 800 pounds and the males may be almost 3 times that weight. Males may be up to 6 foot at the shoulder, and both sexes have horns.  Yaks are not to be trifled with.  Patiently, the driver made his way through the herd of animals and found a pull-off a ½ mile ahead.  We were warned again, not to get too close.

We waited and were rewarded as the cabinet and yak herder made their way up the switch backed road toward us.

It was hard to believe this mother could be threatening.

Behind us, through the mist appeared several large males, how would the females respond to the other herd?

A large male eyes us and the females just beyond us

The mood tensed

A skirmish began, a couple of large males battled together with their the horns clashing. They were eying the females and competing for position.

Our location was becoming precarious. On the edge of the narrow road, we were in between the herd of females and the stomping males.

The Yak herder hollered and waved his hands. He moved to the front of his cabinet, placing himself between the two groups of animals and next to us. He then did something remarkable, he pulled out his mountain flute and began to play.

The males calmed and moved onward up the hill. The female’s quieted by his side.

The Yak herder after calming and separating the two groups.

The flute had worked its magic. The Yak herder had not only charmed the two opposing cabinets, but us as well.

“All in a day’s work”, the Yak charmer posing for us after the drama was resolved.